When you think of the Costa Brava, you picture beaches, coves and whitewashed fishermen’s villages. But move inland just a few kilometres from Begur, and you discover something different.
Here, you’ll find a landscape of golden stone, medieval squares and narrow lanes that take you back to the 14th century.
The villages of Pals, Peratallada and Monells sit in the Baix Empordà, a region dotted with vineyards, rice fields and quiet country roads. Each is a perfectly preserved medieval Catalan village that has its own distinct character.
This guide takes you through all three medieval villages in the Baix Empordà.
Pals: hilltop history and outdoor energy
Pals sits high on a hilltop with views across the Baix Empordà to the Mediterranean. The village surrounds the remains of a castle destroyed during the Spanish Civil War, which has been rebuilt and restored since then.
The highlight is the Tower of the Hours, which once belonged to the medieval castle and now stands as the village’s most recognisable landmark. Inside, the Church of Sant Pere combines Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic styles, while the Museum Ca la Pruna is home to exhibitions on local wine and archaeology, set inside a reconstructed 18th-century pharmacy.
There are restaurants with views, proper shops, and in July the annual Nit de les Espelmes (Night of Candles) lights the old town with thousands of candles and live art performances.
For families, the tourist train Xiulet de Pals departs here and loops through rice fields and nearby villages over roughly 90 minutes.
Who does Pals suit best?
This is the choice for families who want to experience cultural activities, groups who want something beyond a beach day, and anyone interested in local food and wine.
It’s also a good option if you want to split time between the village and nearby attractions like the Montgrí Natural Park or the beaches below.
Travelling with children? Our guide to the top 10 activities with children in and around Begur has more ideas for family days out.
After a day exploring Pals, why not return to one of our villas near Begur and enjoy a quiet evening by the pool? Book your holiday today with ComfortVilla.
Peratallada: carved stone and romantic corners
Peratallada means “carved stone” in Catalan, and the name is perfect. The entire village, walls, castle, and moat, was carved directly from the bedrock. This moat is one of Catalonia’s last fully intact medieval moats.
There aren’t many places that capture medieval authenticity quite like Peratallada does among all the medieval villages in the Baix Empordà.
The castle is now a luxury hotel and the Church of Sant Esteve is a 13th-century Romanesque must-see. But the real magic is strolling through the narrow streets and alleys full of golden sandstone, bougainvillaea spilling from whitewashed walls, and arches framing the main squares.
Restaurants range from casual lunch spots to fine dining, and the village has an artistic, bohemian feel. We suggest pairing your visit with a day exploring the top 10 restaurants in Begur, which offers excellent dining options in nearby towns as well.
Who does Peratallada suit best?
Peratallada is for couples, photographers and anyone who has spent time dreaming about what a true medieval village looks like. It’s also close enough to Pals and Monells that you can visit multiple medieval villages in the Baix Empordà in a single day trip from Begur.
Monells: authenticity without the crowds
If Peratallada is the most famous and Pals the most energetic, Monells is the best-kept secret. It’s the smallest of the three and the least visited, which means it offers something rare… authenticity and silence.
The heart of the village is the Plaça de l’Abat Oliva, a medieval square ringed with 14th-century stone arches and narrow houses that have barely been altered since the Middle Ages.
Unlike Peratallada, there are no cafés with menus in four languages or souvenir shops. There are neighbours, stone walls, and genuine quiet.
The Church of Sant Genís is located near the square, and the village was originally built around the Castle of the Viscounts of Bas, though little of the castle remains today.
Who does Monells suit best?
Monells is best for tourists who want a quiet holiday, catering to travellers who want to avoid the typical tourist traps. It’s ideal for a peaceful afternoon wandering cobbled lanes, sitting in the square with a coffee, and experiencing a medieval village the way locals actually live in it.
Visiting all three villages in one day
The three villages form a triangle in the Baix Empordà, all within 15 kilometres of each other. You can easily visit all three in a day by car, though cycling or taking a combination of local buses is also possible. Most visitors base themselves in Pals or Peratallada and explore from there.
If you’d like to add a coastal element to your inland exploration, consider combining a medieval villages in the Baix Empordà day trip with a walk along the Camí de Ronda coastal path, which connects many of the region’s most stunning coves.
A suggested day itinerary
- Morning: Start in Monells for breakfast or morning coffee. The village is quiet early on.
- Mid-morning to early afternoon: Move to Peratallada and spend two hours walking the medieval streets. Explore the church and castle exterior.
- Lunch: Eat at one of the village restaurants in Peratallada.
- Afternoon: Drive to Pals. Visit the Tower of the Hours and the Church of Sant Pere.
- Evening: Catch sunset from the hillside viewpoint looking back across the Baix Empordà.
Why these villages matter
The point of visiting Pals, Peratallada and Monells isn’t to tick boxes on a tourist checklist. It’s to understand that the Costa Brava isn’t just beaches and seafood restaurants.
Inland, within an easy drive of your beachside villa, lies a different Catalonia, one of stone walls, quiet squares and medieval history that reaches back over a thousand years.
If you’re staying in the region, our villas in Begur and surrounding areas place you perfectly for exploring both the coast and these remarkable medieval villages in the Baix Empordà.
Book your stay with ComfortVilla and explore the inland treasures of the Baix Empordà.
Frequently asked questions
Which village is closest to Begur?
Pals is about 7 kilometres inland from Begur, a 10-minute drive. Peratallada is around 20 minutes away and Monells about 30.
Do I need a car to visit these villages?
A car is strongly recommended. Local buses exist but are infrequent. Renting a car gives you flexibility to visit all three in one day and explore at your own pace.
Which village has the best restaurants?
Peratallada has the widest selection, ranging from casual cafés to fine dining. Pals also has several good options with views across the Baix Empordà. Monells has fewer restaurants, but they serve authentic local cuisine.
How long should I spend in each village?
Plan 1–2 hours in Monells, 2–3 hours in Peratallada (more if you visit the castle), and 2–3 hours in Pals. If you’re visiting all three in one day, 6–8 hours total is realistic including travel time.
Is there any free parking in these villages?
Yes, there is free parking on the outskirts of each village. In peak season (July–August), arrive early or be prepared to walk a few minutes from your car to the old town.