A popular saying on the Costa Brava is that “the only way to really see it is on foot”.
Most of the famous postcard coves, whitewashed villages and hidden beaches along this stretch of Catalonia are only accessible by a narrow coastal path that climbs and dips through pine forests, past ruined watchtowers and along cliffside trails.
This is the Camí de Ronda hiking trail, a coastal footpath that fishermen, smugglers and police patrols used for monitoring the frontier. Today it’s one of Europe’s most beautiful hiking routes, and the section from Begur to Calella de Palafrugell is among the most scenic.
If you’re staying nearby, our holiday villas in Begur put you right by this beautiful coastal trail.
A path with history: from patrol to pilgrimage
The Camí de Ronda hiking trail takes its name from the Catalan word “ronda,” meaning patrol or round. For centuries, the path was used by local guards to watch the coast for pirates and smugglers. Later, the Guardia Civil (Spanish Civil Guard) walked it to monitor the frontier and keep watch on maritime activity.
In recent decades, the path has been restored, signposted and incorporated into the GR-92, a long-distance hiking trail that runs the entire Mediterranean coast of Catalonia.
Today, hikers outnumber patrols, and the Camí de Ronda hiking trail is known as one of the most beautiful coastal walks in Europe.
Walking from Begur to Calella de Palafrugell
The full Camí de Ronda stretches roughly 230 kilometres from Blanes in the south to Portbou near the French border. But the section from Begur to Calella de Palafrugell is where the trail reaches its most dramatic. This particular stretch covers around 18–20 kilometres depending on how much you wander off the main path to explore coves and beaches.
Starting from Begur (or from the nearby beach of Sa Riera), the path climbs steeply through pine forest. Old stone steps take you down to one hidden cove after another: Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna, Platja Fonda, Fornells and Aiguablava.
They all look like postcards, with turquoise water, pink rocks and white fishing houses built into the cliffs.
The path is demanding, but worthwhile:
- The effort: You climb and descend frequently, sometimes steeply; your legs will feel it.
- The views: Turquoise sea framed by pine, and cliffside viewpoints where you can see for kilometres.
- The history: The occasional ruin of a medieval watchtower standing sentinel above the waves.
- The finish: By late afternoon you’ll reach Calella de Palafrugell, a charming resort town where the trail flattens and you can rest, eat and celebrate.
The coves you’ll pass
Aiguafreda is the first cove after Sa Riera, a sheltered inlet between two rocky headlands, with flat rocks for sunbathing and crystal-clear water.
Sa Tuna follows just around the corner, accessible by steep stone steps. The water is deep, clear and cold, perfect for swimming on a hot day.
A few small restaurants and a beach bar sit at the water’s edge, and you’ll see many divers in this part of the sea.
Platja Fonda comes next, reached by a long, steep staircase: a wild pebble beach at the foot of high cliffs, loved by locals. Beyond it lies Fornells, a tiny harbour village with a string of small coves along the path.
From Fornells the path runs on without any big climbs to Aiguablava, with a wider beach, more facilities and excellent swimming. The name means “blue water” in Catalan, after the clear turquoise colour of the bay.
Leaving Aiguablava, the path makes a long, steep climb and descent to Aigua Xelida, a rocky cove popular with snorkellers. From there it climbs once more before dropping down to the relaxed village beach of Tamariu.
Llafranc follows: a proper village with a marina, restaurants and a lighthouse. If you started early, you can pause here for a late lunch and still reach Calella before evening.
To plan where to eat along the way, browse our top 10 restaurants in Begur and surroundings.
The final push to Calella de Palafrugell is flatter and more urban, passing through busier beaches and the small whitewashed houses that define the village’s charm.
Before you go: practical tips
Distance and timing: The hike is around 18–20 kilometres and takes most people 6–8 hours depending on pace and stops. Leave early (7–8 am) to avoid the midday heat and afternoon crowds.
Water and supplies: Bring at least 2 litres of water. The path is mostly unshaded in summer, and there are few shops or fountains on the trail itself. Snacks are essential.
Footwear: Wear proper hiking boots with good grip. The stone steps can be slippery, especially if wet, and your ankles will thank you on descents.
Swimming: Bring a swimsuit and a waterproof bag. The coves are tempting, and a mid-hike swim is refreshing. Dry off properly before continuing.
Getting there: You can start from Begur town (walk down to Sa Riera beach) or park directly at Sa Riera. At the end, Calella de Palafrugell has buses back to other towns, or arrange a taxi. Some hiking companies offer luggage transfer and shuttle services.
Seasons: Spring and autumn are best for this hike. Summer is popular but hot and crowded. Winter is possible, but sections can be muddy or slippery.
Why walk when you could just relax?
The truth is that the best views on the Costa Brava aren’t from a beach lounger. They’re from a clifftop after a long day of hiking the Camí de Ronda.
You don’t need to be a serious hiker to walk this stretch of the Camí de Ronda hiking trail. You need only comfortable shoes, water, and a willingness to spend a day moving along a path.
Discover the Camí de Ronda and return to your ComfortVilla holiday home near Begur to relax after a long day on the trail.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the difficulty level of this hike?
Moderate to challenging. It’s not technically difficult, but there are steep climbs and descents, especially at the coves. Your legs and knees will feel the effort, particularly on the downhill sections.
Can families with young children do this hike?
Families can do portions of it, especially the easier sections from Llafranc to Calella. The full hike from Begur to Calella is challenging for young children due to steep sections and length.
Is the path well-marked?
Yes, the trail is clearly marked with GR-92 signs and red and white blazes. It’s difficult to get lost, though some sections have small deviations or shortcuts that aren’t always obvious.
Can I do this hike in two shorter days instead of one long day?
Absolutely. Many people split it into two days, staying overnight in Llafranc or one of the other coastal villages. This gives you time to swim, explore and recover.
Do I need hiking experience to do the Camí de Ronda?
No serious experience is needed, but you should be in reasonable physical condition. Regular exercise is helpful. If you walk regularly and can handle steep hills, you’ll be fine.