From Calella de Palafrugell to L’Escala: A Guide to the Full Costa Brava Coastline

Most holiday goers pick one village and stay put, but it means missing the best part of this coastline…the drive itself!

The stretch from Calella de Palafrugell to L’Escala takes you past fishing coves, hidden beaches, a medieval stone village and a Greco-Roman ruin. All found within 40 kilometres of each other, you could do it in a single day or spread it across a longer stay.

Either way, this guide takes you through it village by village, sharing the best tips for planning your holiday.

Calella de Palafrugell to Llafranc: the classic start

Begin in Calella de Palafrugell, arguably the most photographed village on this coast, with whitewashed fishermen’s houses stacked along the rocks and small coves like Port Bo and El Canadell beneath them.

According to the official Costa Brava tourist board, this stretch is one of the few parts of the coast to have largely avoided the mass tourism development that has affected villages further south. This is exactly why it still feels the way it does.

From here, the coastal path known as the Camí de Ronda takes you around to Llafranc in around fifteen minutes on foot, or a five-minute drive. Llafranc’s beach is wide, golden and has a gentle slope, backed by an elegant marina and some excellent seafront restaurants.

Tamariu: the quiet detour

From Llafranc, the road climbs briefly inland before dropping back down to Tamariu, about fifteen minutes further by car.

This is the smallest and most low-key stop on the route, a tight crescent of sand located between pine-covered hills, with a short promenade and some seafood restaurants. It isn’t a large village, but worth the stop if you want a proper swim before continuing.

Begur and its hidden coves: Aiguablava, Sa Tuna and Sa Riera

Continuing north, the road climbs up to Begur, a hilltop town with a medieval castle located on top. Famous for its narrow streets and boutiques, there is a lot to see and do in Begur.

But the real draw of this village is the beaches.

Aiguablava is known to have the most turquoise water on this part of the coast, sheltered in a small bay with a well-known Parador hotel at its tip. A short drive further round brings you to Sa Tuna, a tiny fishing cove where houses sit along the waterline, and Sa Riera, the largest of Begur’s beaches, full of chiringuitos.

Pals: medieval stone and open sand

Once you start heading north, you’ll notice that the landscape changes. Pals is a beautifully preserved medieval village of honey-coloured stone. Its old town is built on a small hill with views to the sea and, on a clear day, the Pyrenees inland.

Down at the coast, Platja de Pals is one of the longest, widest beaches on this stretch. It is different from the small rocky coves further south, and a good spot if you’re travelling with kids who want space to run. This is also where the coastline changes from cliff and cove to open sand.

L’Escala: history, sardines and the end of the road

The final stretch brings you to L’Escala, a working fishing town still known across Catalonia for its salted anchovies.

Its main appeal, though, is just outside the town centre…the ruins of Empúries. This is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Spain, where you can walk through the remains of a Greek trading post and a later Roman city.

The Catalan government’s heritage service notes that excavation work has been ongoing here since 1908, and the site includes an on-site museum. L’Escala’s own beaches, including the Cala Montgó, are quieter than most on this route and are the ideal place to end your drive.

Route at a glance

Practical tips for driving this stretch

A car is a must for this route, since public transport between villages is limited outside the peak summer bus season.

A few practical tips to keep in mind

• Parking gets tight in Calella, Llafranc and Sa Riera by late morning in July and August, so an early start is highly recommended.
• Break up the drive if a single long day feels like too much. Basing yourself centrally, in Begur, puts every stop on this route within a manageable drive.
• Refuel on the way back at one of our favourite restaurants in Begur.
• Slow it down with a cycling route around the Costa Brava if you’d rather cover some of this ground on two wheels instead.

Frequently asked questions

How long does the drive from Calella de Palafrugell to L’Escala take?

Without stops, the drive takes around an hour. Most visitors spread it across a full day to allow time at each village, or split it into two or three shorter outings from a central base such as Begur.

Do I need a car for this route?

A car makes this route far easier. Public buses connect some of the villages in July and August, but outside peak season, a car is the most reliable way to see all six stops in one trip.

Which stop is best for families with young children?

Llafranc and Platja de Pals both have wide, gently sloping sandy beaches that are easier for younger children. Tamariu’s sheltered cove is also a safe, calm option.

Is Empúries worth the detour to L’Escala?

Yes, particularly for anyone interested in history. It’s one of the most significant archaeological sites in Spain, with both Greek and Roman remains and an on-site museum, and it’s a good half-day excursion.

Can I walk any part of this route instead of driving?

The section from Calella de Palafrugell to Llafranc is an easy fifteen-minute coastal walk. However, beyond that, the distances between villages are too long, and either driving or cycling is more practical.